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Jean-Paul Gaultier: Gast-Designerin entwirft Couture und Rihanna wird Marie Antoinette – Fashion News

In dieser Woche wird Rihanna erneut zu Marie Antoinette, Mykki Blanco zeigt die Kraft von Wandel und wir verraten, wer Jean-Paul Gaultier Gast-Designerin der ersten Stunde wird.

Jean-Paul Gaultier Gast-Designerin entwirft erste Couture-Kollektion


Foto: Gio Staiano/Jean-Paul Gaultier via NYLON.com

Bewegen wir uns weg vom Kult einer einzelnen Person an der Spitze eines Modehauses? Sind die Tage von drastischen Neuerfindungen einer Marke durch Design-Koryphäen gezählt? Vielleicht schon, gleichzeitig wird dieser Trend aber nur noch stärker. Jean-Paul Gaultier macht es vor: Nachdem der Designer sich zuletzt nach 50 Jahren Mode aus der Couture verabschiedet hatte, sollen seine Couture-Shows nun im rotierenden Wechsel von verschiedenen Kolleg*innen designt werden. Den Anfang als Jean-Paul Gaultier Gast-Designerin macht Chitose Abe vom Label Sacai. Die Japanerin wird sich um die Herbst-Couture-Kollektion der Marke kümmern. Das Modell wechselnder Designkräften tritt immer mehr in Kraft: Zuletzt gaben nicht nur Miuccia Prada und Raf Simons ihre kontinuierliche Zusammenarbeit bei Prada bekannt, auch Christian Lacroix und Dries van Noten arbeiteten zusammen. Die Brand Moncler feierte mit ihren verschiedenen Design-Kollaborationen im „Genius Project” ebenfalls schon einige Erfolge. Riechen wir da ein Business-Modell der Zukunft?

Was sich ändert und was nicht: Desigual und Mykki Blanco zeigen neues „La 86“-Design

Wenn man etwas aufrütteln und Wandel einleiten will, sollte man sich Mykki Blanco ins Haus holen. So posiert das Multi-Talent gerade als Gesicht für die Neuauflage von Desiguals Jacke „La 86″. Das Traditionsmodell der spanischen Brand erhält in diesem Jahr ein Makeover und kehrt als Silhouette aus recycleten Denim-Resten, mit Mickey-Mouse-Print und Desigual-Lettering zurück. Wie schon zu ihrem Ursprung in den 1980er-Jahren soll die Jacke Nachhaltigkeit, Selbstbewusstsein und Liebe zum Detail verkörpern – vor allem aber eben die Zeit überdauern. All diese Eigenschaften verkörpert auch Blanco – die Songs des Rap-Stars Songs mögen vielleicht nicht an den Spitzen der Charts stehen, darin ging es aber ohnehin immer mehr um den künstlerischen Wert. So wird Blanco vom britischen Guardian zitiert, ursprünglich lieber wie John-Lennon-Witwe Yoko Ono werden zu wollen anstatt Rap-Personality. Blanco aber hat sich verändert und trotzdem begeistert – ganz wie „La 86″.

Marie Antoinette x RiRi? Neue Savage x Fenty Kollektion


Bilder: Savage x Fenty via NYLON.com

Marie Antoinette scheint gerade einen erneuten Fashion-Moment zu haben. Zur Mailänder Fashion Week ließ sich in dieser Saison zuerst Jeremy Scott von der französischen Königin zu wörtlich gemeinten Torten-Designs inspirieren, nun tritt aber Rihanna erneut in ihre Fußstapfen. Die neue Kollektion von Rihannas Lingerie-Label Savage x Fenty scheint von Marie Antoinette beeinflusst zu sein – das jedenfalls deuten die großen, bunten Pouf-Perücken an. Die Models Lulu Bonfils, Jarline, Jordyn Johnson sowie Sabey und Leslie Sidora tragen sie zu Spitzen-Dessous, Corsagen, Negligés und Strapsen in Weiß, pinken Pastelltönen und Schwarz. Auch Rihanna selbst ist in der Kampagne zu sehen  – sie erinnert mit ihrer eigenen Frisur fast ein wenig an die männlichen Hairstyles des 18. Jahrhunderts. Und wer weiß schon, ob es in Marie Antoinettes Ankleidezimmer nicht wirklich so zuging wie auf den Kampagnenbildern? Rihannas Vorstellung dieser ist wie immer size-inclusive – wenn sie doch nur auch unsere Geschichtsbücher schreiben könnte.

She’s So High: UGGs „LA Cloud”-Sneaker und „Oh Yeah”-Slides

Als sich UGG Gedanken über die Schuhdesigns fürs Frühjahr gemacht hat, dürfte ein leichter Schritt im Fokus gestanden haben. Daran jedenfalls erinnern die neuen Modelle, der „LA Cloud”-Sneaker und die „Oh Yeah“-Slides. Den „Cloud”-Sneaker gibt es mit einer chunky Sohle, die Sneakerfans  laut Namen himmelhoch hinaus tragen soll. Die „Oh Yeah“-Slides wiederum bestehen aus weichem, UGG-typischen Lammfell. Beide Versionen kommen in Schwarz und verschiedenen Pastell- und Neontönen. Während der Pariser Fashion Week (auf der ein leichter und weicher Schritt zweifelsfrei sehr willkommen gewesen sein dürfte) wurden die Modelle schon von Mode-Persönlichkeiten wie Jan-Michael Quammie oder Anaa Saber und Brenn & Jules Lorenzo von Skate Kitchen in Szene gesetzt. Ob uns die Styles im kommenden Frühjahr wohl auch die Karriere-Leiter hinaufbefördern könnten? Das eigene Konto jedenfalls würde sich bedanken.

Ein Hoch auf das Selbstbild: & Other Stories für den Weltfrauentag

Wie feiert man den Weltfrauentag visuell? Lässt man die Frauen bildlich hochleben, die einen geprägt haben? Postet ein Bild der eigenen Vorbilder? Ein Selfie? Bastelt Schilder für den Women’s March? Für & Other Stories ist die Entscheidung auf die Selbstdarstellung gefallen. Das meint nicht unbedingt das klassische Selfie, sondern eine Zusammenarbeit mit verschiedenen Fotografinnen. Mit dabei sind für Deutschland Lottermann & Fuentes, international Gia Coppola, Wang Ziqian, Amanda Charchian, Grace Bukunmi,  Wai Lin Tse, Laura Kampman und Ewa-Marie Rundquist. Jede hat das Kampagnen-Selbstbild in ihrer eigenen Interpretation umgesetzt. Im Wald fotografiert, vorm Fast-Food-Restaurant, als Schattenbild oder neu interpretiertes Spiegelselfie: Die Bilder zeigen ein facettenreiches Selbst- und Frauenbild, wie es der Feiertag am Sonntag repräsentieren soll. Alle Bilder werden als Poster in limitierter Auflage erhältlich sein, der gesamte Erlös geht an die Organisation CARE, die sich der Armutsbekämpfung bei Frauen und Mädchen verschrieben hat. Außerdem wird in einer Sonderaktion für jedes Selbstporträt (oder eben das klassische Selfie), das mit #herimagestory getaggt wird ein weiterer Euro an die Organisation gespendet. Also, let’s bring back the good old Spiegelselfie, people.

Gucci Beauty Moment in L.A.: Neue Mascara „L’Obscur”

…zu guter Letzt: Ein großer Moment für den ebenso großen Augenaufschlag. Eigentlich wissen wir, dass es hier um Mode geht und uns Partybilder aus Städten wie L.A. tendenziell schon eher neidisch machen – die Bilder vom Gucci Beauty Event gestern in Los Angeles sehen aber einfach nach zu viel Spaß aus, als dass wir sie euch vorenthalten könnten. In Zusammenarbeit mit Sephora hostete Gucci Beauty gestern auf der Melrose Avenue ein Privat-Event, auf dem die neue Mascara „L’Obscur” vorgestellt wurde. Unter anderem durften sich Musiker*innen wie King Princess, Kilo Kish, oder Soko mit der schwarzen Mascara austoben und eine Preview auf die Pop-Up „Gucci Beauty Network Studios“ werfen. Looks like fun – ein bisschen neidisch sind wir deshalb also trotzdem.

Noch ausführlichere Style-News lest ihr hier: 

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood 2020: So war’s Behind the Scenes bei der Paris Fashion Week
Das Comeback der 60er Jahre: Wir erklären DIE nächste Dekade in Sachen Fashion
Social Media, Nachhaltigkeit, neue Generationen: Toni Garrn spricht über Buzzwords

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