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Comme des Garçons Chaos, Karo-Print und „Koffer packen”: Fashion News der Woche

Das Chaos um Comme des Garçons verstärkt die Diskussion um political Correctness in der Mode, ein Pokal kriegt ein Vuitton-Makeover und Inuit-Designerinnen entwerfen Parkas: Die Fashion News der Woche.

Bevor wir mit weiteren News einsteigen, können wir einen großen Moment des noch jungen Modejahres nicht auslassen. Im Rahmen der Pariser Haute Couture Shows für Frühjahr/Sommer 2020 verabschiedete sich das „Enfant terrible“ der Mode, Jean Paul Gaultier, zumindest von der Couture. Zumindest erst einmal, zumindest formell. Gar nicht formell ging es dafür bei seiner Abschiedsshow in Paris zu. Die besten Looks und Gedanken dazu von NYLON Fashion Director Nina Petters findet ihr hier.

 

Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

 

Ein Beitrag geteilt von NYLON magazine germany (@nylongermany) am

Canada Goose: Kooperation mit 18 Inuit-Designerinnen in Kollektion „Atigi 2.0”

Viel besser noch als mit Werbekampagnen oder Image-Filmen fördert man die Repräsentation verschiedener ethnischer Gruppen durch Praxis. Das hat die Brand Canada Goose bereits im letzten Jahr verstanden und das Projekt „Atigi” ins Leben gerufen. Zusammen mit der gemeinnützigen Organisation Inuit Tapiriit Kanatami (ITK) kollaboriert die Marke mit Inuit-Designerinnen, die eine Reihe von handgemachten Parkas entwerfen. Dank seines Erfolgs 2019 geht das Projekt jetzt bereits in die zweite Runde. 18 Inuit-Designerinnen aus 12 Gemeinden der Inuit-Heimat Nunangat haben je fünf Jacken entworfen, die ab heute in ausgewählten Stores und auf canadagoose.com erhältlich sind. Die Designs sollen das Erbe der einzelnen Frauen sowie die Inuit-Bevölkerung und ihre Kunstfertigkeit widerspiegeln. Wenn man aber von Repräsentation spricht, kommt schnell die Diskussion um Profit auf – Canada Goose CEO Dani Reiss hat darauf eine klare Antwort: „Wenn Sie einen Parka von Projekt Atigi kaufen, investieren sie in den Ort und die Menschen, die ihn gestalten“. Über die Organisation ITK soll der Erlös des Projekts Inuit-Gemeinden in ganz Kanada zugute kommen. Schon die Einnahmen der vergangenen Kollektion wurden von ITK zur Unterstützung von Inuit-Ausbildungs-, Beschäftigungs- und Kulturerhaltungsprogrammen verwendet.

„Der Sieg reist in Vuitton”: Louis Vuitton und NBA geben globale Partnerschaft bekannt

Diejenigen von uns, die auf eine Zukunft hoffen, in der sie mal eine NBA-Trophäe gewinnen, dürfen sich noch einmal mehr freuen. Ab jetzt gibt’s den Preis nämlich auch in standesgemäßer „Verpackung”. Okay, some Context: Diese Woche gaben die NBA und Louis Vuitton den Beginn einer globalen Partnerschaft bekannt. Am Anfang dieser steht das exklusive Vuitton-Kofferdesign für die „Larry O’Brien Trophy” , die dem jeweiligen NBA-Champion jedes Jahr im Juni überreicht wird. Louis Vuitton ist damit das erste Modehaus, das einen Koffer für die Trophäe entwirft, und geht mit der NBA seine erste Partnerschaft in der nordamerikanischen Sportliga ein. Michael Burke, CEO und Chairman von Louis Vuitton, äußert sich dazu gar nicht mal so bescheiden: Ab jetzt reise der Sieg in Vuitton, sagte er in einer Pressemitteilung. Der Koffer ist aber nur der Startschuss für die mehrjährige Partnerschaft zwischen den Unternehmen. Ab jetzt wolle Louis Vuitton jährlich eine NBA-Capsule-Collection in limitierter Auflage releasen, zu der Details noch folgen sollen. And suddenly, we’re into Basketball.

SKINY geht zurück in die 1986er – in den „Summer at Home”

Storytelling bleibt ein Buzzword – selbst in der Mode. Dass sich dahinter aber eine ausführliche Geschichte mit Charakteren und Szenen verbirgt, ist eher selten der Fall. Nicht so beim österreichischen Bodywear-Label SKINY. Für ihre Frühjahr/Sommer Kollektion „1986 – Summer @ home” hat sich die Marke eine kleine Kurzgeschichte ausgedacht. Hier mal die Facts: Es ist das Jahr 1986, das Jahr, in dem Madonna zum Superstar und SKINY selbst gegründet wird. In dieser Zeit leben die Figuren Sabina, Marie und Gabriel, drei Geschwister, die den Sommer auf dem familiären Segelboot verbringen wollen. Ihre Eltern, wohlhabende Österreicher und Villenbesitzer, sind ausgeflogen. Die drei Geschwister sind zwar grundverschieden – in diesem Sommer entsteht aber trotzdem eine Geschichte über Familie, Freundschaft und lange, heiße Sommertage voller Nichtstun. Durch vier verschiedene Drops stellt sich die Skiny-Kollektion passend dazu breit auf. Hoch geschnittene Spitzen-Lingerie, graphische Comic-Prints oder Kombinationen mit Denim sorgen für einen Vibe, der gerade auch in die neuen Folgen von Serien wie „Sex Education” passen könnte. Vielleicht kann die Geschwister-Storyline hier ja anknüpfen?

Ist der Appropriation-Vorwurf an Comme des Garçons wirklich überraschend?

 

Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

 

Ein Beitrag geteilt von juliendys (@juliendys) am

Die Diskussion um die Aneignung kultureller Motive jeglicher Art ist eine, deren Ausmaß diese Fashion News sprengen würde – und noch längst nicht vorbei. Mit der aktuellen Show des Labels Comme des Garçons sprachen die Mode-Überwacher von @diet_prada in dieser Woche das nächste Beispiel an. Zusammen mit dem Stylisten Julien d’Ys hatte das Label Perücken aus geflochtenen Zöpfen à la Cornrows auf dem Pariser Laufsteg gezeigt. Das sorgte für einen Shitstorm und Vorwürfe der Cultural Appropriation. Auf Instagram kommentierte d’Ys den Vorfall, indem er ein weiteres Bild der Models postete und schrieb, seine Inspiration sei ein ägyptischer Prinz gewesen. Dessen Stil habe er für wunderschön und inspirierend befunden. Wie Fabienne Sand für die WELT schreibt, bleibt damit aber die Frage offen, warum Stylist und Label dann nicht ägyptische Models auf den Laufsteg schickten. Stattdessen ließen sie eine Perücke mit Lace-Front anfertigen, deren kulturelle Konnotation und Geschichte der Diskriminierung nach Ende der Show wieder abgelegt werden konnten. Die Debatten um Inspiration und Aneignung, Respekt und fälschliche Repräsentation, um den Platz von political Correctness in der Mode, liefern aber noch eine zweite Frage: Warum hat Comme des Garçons, eine eigentlich für puristische und voranschreitende Entwürfe gefeierte Marke, diesen Fehltritt nicht kommen sehen? Die Antwort findet sich vielleicht in der Kommentarspalte zu Julien d’Ys Post. Für seine Rechtfertigung erhält er Zuspruch von Branchengrößen wie Carine Roitfeld, Daphne Guinness oder dem Fotografen Steven Klein. Sie alle sind weiß.

Tartan-Tastatur: FILA Heritage Kollektion

Beim Blick auf das Bildmaterial der neuen Heritage-Kollektion von FILA haben wir nur noch einen Wunsch: Wir müssen an diesen karierten PC kommen. Alle, die ebenfalls offiziell bereit wären, jedes noch so teure MacBook für eine karierte Version von Windows 95 einzutauschen, müssen sich allerdings geschlagen geben. Natürlich ist der karierte PC nicht Teil der neuen Heritage-Kollektion von FILA. Dafür gibt’s das Karo-Muster in umso mehr Allover-Looks: ein Jumpsuit mit weit geschnittenem Bein, ein Trägertop, ein Tracksuit und Accessoires in der Women’s Line und ein schwarzer Tracksuit plus Cap bei den Jungs. Dank leichter und körperanpassender Stoffe eignen sich die Styles für alle kommenden Jahreszeiten. Mit den Accessoires lassen sie sich entweder als einzelnes Element oder in Kopf-bis-Fuß-Kombi stylen. Plus: Tartan gilt als Muster-Thema als gesetzter Klassiker, ist klar. Wir hoffen deshalb in der nächsten Runde einfach mal darauf, dass ein…ähem, gewisses technisches Gadget als zusätzliches Accessoire nicht ausgelassen wird. 😉

Headerfoto: SKINY

Was dieses Jahr in Sachen Fashion News bisher so passiert ist: 

Frank Ocean & Prada scrabbeln, Pferde modeln für Gucci: Fashion News der Woche
100.000€ Finderlohn für Ufo361 Schmuck & Modemagazin ohne Fotos: Fashion News der Woche
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