Model To Watch: Wie Jill Kortleve internationale Runways aufräumt
Während sie sich als „Jilla Tequila“ auf Instagram clever und selbstironisch für Body Positivity stark macht, setzt das niederländische Model Jill Kortleve neue Zeichen auf internationalen Runways.
First of all: warum nicht „Plus-Size-Model“ gemeinsam aus dem Fashion-Wörterbuch killen? Der Begriff, der jahrzehntelang schöne Kurven von der streitbaren Körpernorm der Modeindustrie abgrenzen sollte, ist nicht erst seit Jill Kortleve völlig out. Welchen Begriff wir stattdessen benutzen können? „XXLModel“? No way. Tyra Banks’ Begriff der „Real Size“? Lieb gemeint. „Curvy Model“? Meinetwegen. Wie wäre es am Ende einfach mit „Model“? Funktioniert zumindest immer, wenn jemand wie Jill Kortleve auf namhaften internationalen Runways läuft – auch ohne Size Zero. Doch ob wohl eine neue Generation von Models heran wächst, die bewusst Haltung zeigt und zu ihren Körpern steht, müssen wir zugeben, dass der Großteil der Modeindustrie vor allem auf dem Laufsteg diesbezüglich noch starke Defizite aufweist.
Das weiß auch Jill Kortleve. Die 27-jährige Niederländerin, die 2019 von Rihanna für ihre Lingerie-Kollektion gebucht wird, sagte in der Sonderausgabe der „iD“, dem „Rihannazine“, No. 1 2020, dass sie sich der Standards der Modebranche durchaus bewusst sei, sie selbst aber danach strebe, diese Standards zu erweitern. Und voilà, dafür tut die Niederländerin einiges: Zusammen mit ihrer besten Freundin, die Jill am Anfang als Model entdeckt und unter Vertrag nimmt, macht sie die Amsterdamer Model-Agentur The Movement, die sich fernab der Norm aufstellt, bekannt. Auf Instagram gilt sie mit ihren 157k Followern als eine der wichtigsten Body-Neutrality-Aktivistinnen der Branche. Dort wirkt sie echt und selbstironisch. Neben sinnlichen und glamourösen Fotos von sich und ihren Freund*innen, zeigt sie ihren kreativen Sinn für Humor. Auf einem Bild stellt sie sich neben ihre schwangere Freundin und schreibt darunter: „Guess who’s preggo and who just needs to take a huge shit?“
Mit Natürlichkeit und Charme auf das Cover der „Vogue” – und den Laufsteg von Chanel
Jill Kortleve (Instagram: @jillatequila) sorgt mit ihrer unverschämten Natürlichkeit und ungeschönten Personality bei den einen für Anerkennung, bei den anderen für reges Aufsehen. Aber beides mit Erfolg! Schon kurz nachdem ihre Freundin sie 2016 entdeckt, wird sie von Brands wie Nike und Diesel gebucht. Es folgen Aufträge von High-Fashion-Labels wie Alexander McQueen, dessen Kampagnengesicht sie 2019 wird. Im gleichen Jahr ist Jill zum ersten Mal auf nahezu jedem SS 2020 Laufsteg der New Yorker Fashion Week zu sehen. Der absolute Höhepunkt kommt dann 2020, als sie auf der Pariser Fashion Week als das erste „Curvy Model“ seit Crystal Renn ein Jahrzehnt zuvor für das sonst so traditionelle Modehaus Chanel läuft. Aber Jill bleibt auf dem Boden. Damals kann sie das alles kaum fassen, schreibt sie auf ihrem Instagram-Kanal. Als sie Anfang des Jahres dazu noch auf dem Cover der französischen „Vogue“ erscheint, flippt sie unter einem Post völlig aus: „Ich dachte niemals, dass ich ein Model werde – und schon gar nicht auf dem Cover einer ,Vogue‘!“ Heute ist sie mit der niederländischen September 2020 Ausgabe der „Vogue“ sogar auf zwei Covern des Modemagazins zu sehen.
Auch Jill Kortleve war skinny, um Model sein zu können
Wir wollen euch jetzt aber nicht weiter mit der Batterie an internationalen Brands nerven, die Jill für sich gewinnen konnten. Fest steht: Jill Kortleve ist ein internationales Topmodel und dazu ein verdammt guter Mensch. Ein Mensch, der viel Glück hatte, wie sie selber dem „Rihannazine“ verrät, und dafür einen schwierigen Weg hinter sich bringen musste. Denn auch Jill war früher mal skinny, um Model sein zu können. Im gleichen Interview erzählt sie, wie sie gegen ihren natürlichen Körperbau angekämpft hat: „Als ich als Model zu arbeiten begann, zwang ich mich dazu, Straight Size zu sein. Ich war mir selbst nicht treu und tat viele Dinge, mit denen ich nicht einverstanden war. Und ich hörte auf, viele Dinge zu tun, die ich tun wollte – ich litt seelisch. Ich hatte aufgehört, auf meinen Körper und auf mich selbst zu hören und konnte sehen, wie unglücklich ich war. Ich hatte das Glück, nie eine Essstörung gehabt zu haben, aber ich sehe überall um mich herum Mädchen und Jungs, die eine haben. Es ist auf jeden Fall wichtig, darüber zu reden. Es ist immer noch ein Tabu. Aber Fashion ist ein solches Vorbild für Menschen auf der ganzen Welt, also ist es wichtig und gut, dass die Branche sich ändert.“
Wir glauben an Jill als Vorbild und freuen uns auf noch mehr junge Models, die fernab von veralteten Ansprüchen der FashionIndustrie etwas weit Wichtigeres finden als die „richtige“ Kleidergröße: nämlich zu sich selbst und damit zu der einzigen Größe, die am Ende zählen sollte.
Text: Naya Bindzus // Fotos: Ferry van der Nat
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