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Roundup Calling: Drei Favs von der London Fashion Week 2018

Die LFW 2018 hatte natürlich noch mehr zu bieten, als Christopher Baileys heiß erwartete BurberryRainbow-Show. Wir haben drei Highlights für euch rausgepickt.

Text: Nadja Preyer // Titelbild: Instagram @usherlovejpny

Dark and strong: Die Kollektion von Gareth Pugh

Die 80er sind einfach nicht totzukriegen. Zum Glück. Ihr erinnert euch an unseren Beitrag zum Comeback der Banana Clips vergangene Woche.

Gareth Pugh hebt mit seiner Interpretation das Power Dressing von 1980 in diesem Jahr auf ein neues Level: Architektonisch geschnittene Schulterpolster à la Grace Jones und exorbitante Schnitte prägen seine Kollektion. Und neben Leo-Muster dominiert die Farbgebung vor allem die Nicht-Farbe schlechthin: Schwarz. Gepaart mit strenger Linienführung und gesetzten Nadelstreifen nimmt er dem Jahrzehnt das Überzogene und verleiht der Trägerin eine ernstzunehmende bis bedrohliche Aura. Mit den Feinheiten baut Pugh schließlich eine gute Prise Punk ein: Stacheldraht um den Kopf und glossy-verschmiertes Make-up lassen seine Models aussehen, als wären sie direkt von einem durchfeierten Wochenende auf den Laufsteg gestolpert – oder von der Arbeit aus der Kohlemiene. It’s up to you.

Bright and Grown-Up: JW Anderson

Er geht einen Schritt zurück. Und macht dabei zwei nach vorn. JW Anderson zeigt sich mit seiner Kollektion auf der LFW 2018 im Vergleich zu den meisten anderen Labels fast schon bescheiden – und fällt so wiederum komplett aus der Reihe.

Es ist die Liebe zum Detail, die seine AW18-Kreationen strahlen lässt. Denn während bei anderen Häusern gern mal die Klarheit für laute Messages Platz machen muss,  versetzt uns die Konzentration auf genau ein Thema beim Betrachten der JWA-Kollektion fast schon in eine Art beruhigende Trance. Das schafft er sogar mit Kombis wie einer knallpinken Bag und Paisley-Muster. Vielleicht hat ihn ja seine Kooperation mit dem Basic-Label Uniqlo zu seiner neuen Bescheidenheit inspiriert. Wir freuen uns über die alltagstauglichen Teile und sagen: keep up the good work, Jonathan!

Ein Beitrag geteilt von A&E (@aeworld_mag) am


A Colorful Future: LGBTQ+ abseits von Burberry

Klar, Burberry war in aller Munde. Kein Wunder, schließlich trafen zwei brandaktuelle Themen in der Show aufeinander. Zunächst war da der Weggang von Christopher Bailey nach 17 Jahren. Doch statt Trauerflor zu tragen, machten die Briten ein Statement für LGBTQ+ und feierten Baileys letzten Runway mit Positivity und einer großen letzten Amtshandlung: dem neuen Burberry Rainbow-Check. Zeitloser Cara-Delevingne-Moment inklusive. Besonders bewegend finden wir, dass eines der traditionellsten Häuser so offen für eine bunte Zukunft ist, dass es sein Wiedererkennungszeichen umgestaltet.

Die Karo-Brits waren jedoch nicht die einzigen, die sich Pride und Geschlechtergleichheit auf die Fahne schreiben. Die LFW war generell von zahlreichen politischen Statements geprägt. Dass das auch ohne Rainbow-Welle geht, zeigt neben JW Anderson (der schon lange für androgyne Entwürfe steht) vor allem der Nachwuchs.

Zu sehen zum Beispiel auf der Graduate-Show der Westminster-Absolventen: Dort hüllte der selbsternannte non-binary Designer William Dill-Russell seine Male-Models in avantgardistische Roben und verpasste ihnen gigantische Trauben-Ohrringe und Drag-Make-up – Body Posivity inklusive.

In Zeiten von #metoo ging es neben dem Fokus auf queere Lebensweisen natürlich auch um die Gleichberechtigung von Frauen. Subtil, aber wirksam behandelte die Nachwuchs-Designerin Charlotte Knowles das Thema, indem sie gelernte weibliche Klischees wie den Push-up in einen anderen Kontext setzte. Oder indem sie ihre Wollhandschuhe wie Putzwerkzeug aussehen ließ. Knowles wurde von der non-profit Organisation „Fashion East“ eingeladen. Diese arbeitet eng mit der LFW zusammen, um jungen Talenten eine Plattform zu geben. Trotz aller Diskussion um die generelle Relevanz der Fashion Weeks: wir sind gespannt, was die nächste zu bieten hat.

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