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Der NYLON-Guide für Prag

Wo ihr schlafen, essen, trinken und shoppen solltet.

Text: Juliann Dinicola

Meine Zugfahrt nach Prag war in einem Wort: miserabel. Ich hatte keinen Sitzplatz und war im Gang zusammengepfercht mit zehn anderen Leuten, einem Hund und… einer Toilette. Ein Junggesellenabschied aus Düsseldorf hatte sich während der gesamten morgendlichen Fahrt bis zur Besinnungslosigkeit betrunken, wodurch meine Laune mit jedem Schluck Bier Richtung Keller sank. Als der Zug schließlich in Prag einfuhr, dachte ich, nichts könne diese schreckliche Reise wieder gutmachen. Bis ich schließlich aus den Tiefen der Bahnstation auf die prachtvollen Straßen Prags trat.  Als meine Freunde und ich unsere schrecklich nette Airbnb-Gastgeberin trafen – sie hat uns sogar Tickets für die Straßenbahn gekauft – machte ihre freundliche Art zusammen mit den gepflasterten Gassen um uns herum den stressigen Morgen vergessen. Der Stolz auf ihre Stadt war offensichtlich und absolut nachvollziehbar: Prag wird oft mit einer Stadt aus dem Märchen verglichen – und sobald man die historische Altstadt betritt, weiß man warum. Auch wenn Prag, wie jede andere Stadt, seine Probleme hat, ist da noch immer eine fast greifbare Magie. Farbenfrohe Gebäude, malerische Brücken und charmante Architekturen machen diese Stadt aus, die sich an die konstanten Besucherströme erst noch gewöhnen muss. Obwohl erst seit kurzem eine Touri-Hochburg, hat Prag eine geschichtsträchtige Vergangenheit und war schon immer von entscheidender Bedeutung für Europa. Und wenn es gut genug für den König des Heiligen Römischen Reiches war, ist es sicherlich auch eures Besuchs würdig. Prag hat viel zu bieten, deshalb kommen hier nur einige unserer Lieblingstipps. Und vergesst nicht: Bier ist in dieser Stadt billiger als Wasser. Nicht, dass es nachher heißt, wir hätten euch nicht gewarnt…

Vorweg: Hier findet ihr übrigens noch ein paar Insidertipps von der tschechisch-türkischen Sängerin Melis!

Wo schlafen?

Cosmopole Hostel
Obwohl ich im Urlaub eigentlich keinen Schnickschnack brauche, gehen mir Hostels oft ganz schön auf die Nerven. Billigunterkünfte haben manchmal heruntergekommene, schmutzige Zimmer ohne die elementarste Ausstattung. Doch zum Glück gehört das Cosmopole Hostel, das zwischen Alt- und Neustadt liegt, nicht zu dieser Horrorkategorie. Die Dachterrasse, von der aus man einen Blick auf eine lebhafte Straßenkreuzung sowie pinke und gelbe Häuser hat, ist der perfekte Platz, um zu arbeiten. Das Bett in einem Schlafsaal (nur einen Tag vorher gebucht!) kostet schlappe 12 Euro pro Nacht. Das Beste an Prag ist: Die Stadt hat feste Ruhezeiten von 22 bis 6 Uhr morgens. Ihr müsst also keine sechs Typen in eurem Schlafsaal fürchten, die euch die ganze Nacht mit ihrem Partyprogramm wachhalten.

Airbnb
Wenn ihr was Geräumigeres zu einem guten Preis-Leistungsverhältnis wollt, ist Airbnb das Richtige für euch. Da der Markt in Prag noch nicht wirklich umkämpft ist, findet ihr hier einige richtig gute Angebote. Bevor wir ins Hostel gezogen sind, haben meine Freunde und ich ein großes Studio mit voller Küchenausstattung für 45 Euro am Tag gemietet. Unsere Gastgeberin war sehr zuvorkommend. Sie hat uns am Bahnhof abgeholt, damit wir uns nicht verlaufen (es ist eine kleine Stadt, man verläuft sich nicht) und uns mit Stadtplänen, Tram-Tickets und Toilettenartikeln ausgestattet. Es ist fast wie ein Hotel, nur gemütlicher. Schnappt euch ein Apartment in der Neustadt oder in Žižkov – je nachdem, wie touristisch ihr es haben wollt.

Boscolo Prague
Ihr wollt ein bisschen mehr Kohle ausgeben? Dann ist das Boscolo Hotel Prague genau das Richtige für euch. Zentral gelegen und mit allen Hotelannehmlichkeiten ausgestattet, bekommt ihr hier Komfort und Privatsphäre – ohne hinter euch aufräumen zu müssen, der Nachteil von Airbnb. Das Frühstück (inklusive!) ist ebenfalls Top-Notch und der Übernachtungspreis von 120 Euro ganz sicher nicht unverschämt für ein Hotel. Es ist also definitiv den Luxus wert.

Wo essen?

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Dish
Ich habe alleine bei Dish gegessen und war erleichtert, dort andere „einsame“ Gäste zu sehen, die auf Barhockern ihren Burger aßen und dabei ein Buch lasen. Dass sowohl Burger, Pommes als auch die Sauce für die Pommes extra kosten, hat mich an New York erinnert – und ich hab glückselig für alles mein Portemonnaie hingehalten. Es ist jeden Cent wert. Bestellt euch den gleichnamigen Dish-Burger – er hat eine mysteriöse, scharfe Killersauce drauf.

Clear Head
Nach Tagen schweren tschechischen Essens und Bier ist ein „klarer Kopf“ genau das, was man braucht. Denn mal ernsthaft: Wie oft kann man bitte ein Schnitzel essen? Dieser vegan-vegetarische Laden liegt versteckt in einer verwinkelten Gasse und trumpft mit einer mehrseitigen Speisekarte auf, dank derer ihr euch in kürzester Zeit wie neugeboren fühlt. Säfte, Raw Food und köstliche Dips machen einen Besuch in diesem Restaurant zum Muss.

U Krale Brabantskeho
Tschechisches Essen hat einen schlechten Ruf – aber nach einem Besuch in diesem Laden werdet ihr euch fragen, warum nur. Eingebettet in eine kurvige Straße mit Backsteinhäusern, direkt unterhalb der Prager Burg, serviert dieses Mittelalter-Themenrestaurant zweifellos das Beste, was ich in Prag gegessen habe. Gönnt euch nach einem langen Spaziergang durch die Altstadt fluffige Knödel mit soßengetränkter Ente, würzigem Rotkohl und spottbilligem Bier. Aber nur zum Lunch! Denn abends verwandelt sich der Schuppen in eine kostümierte Mittelalter-Show, die ganz laut „Touri!“ schreit.

U Sadu

Ein Lieblingsort für Locals jeder Altersgruppe. Dieses entspannte Bar-Restaurant ist so etwas wie die Zeitkapsel einer Stadt, die erst vor kurzem angefangen hat, sich (rasant) zu verändern. Zigarettenrauch aus vergangenen Zeiten steckt noch in den Wänden, als es noch erlaubt war, drinnen Kette zu schmöken. Bestellt euch Lamm oder wählt aus der riesigen Bierauswahl einfach nur einen Flüssig-Lunch aus. Und ja, sie akzeptieren Bitcoin als Zahlmittel. Warum auch nicht.

Wo trinken?

Bukowski’s
Versteht mich nicht falsch: Es gibt haufenweise Bars und Clubs in den Touri-Zentren der Alt- und Neustadt. Aber wenn ihr einen Ort sucht, der nicht von 21-jährigen grölenden Besoffenen überlaufen ist, solltet ihr zu Bukowski’s gehen. Die heruntergekommene und doch sexy Bar in Žižkov – Prags Hipsterviertel – ist lebhaft, cool, aber vor allem: billig. Kommt am besten sonntags und bestellt solange Bierkrüge, bis das Fass alle ist.

JazzDock
Die Musik macht das fehlende Ambiente wett. JazzDock liegt auf dem Fluss, nur einen kurzen Fußweg von der Brücke der Legionen entfernt. Jede Nacht gibt es dort Live-Musik – ein toller Ort, um Jazz-Ensembles aus der ganzen Welt zu hören. Ich bin mit Freunden hin gegangen, aber auch Solo-Traveller fühlen sich dort wohl. Schnappt euch ein Glas Weißwein und lasst euch von einigen außergewöhnlichen Musikern faszinieren. Bucht die Tickets am besten vorher online, um Stress zu sparen.

Cross Club
Der wohl berühmteste Party-Spot Prags bietet für jeden etwas. Dank ihrer Steampunk-Deko hat es die mehrstöckige Kneipe zu Insta-Fame gebracht. Ob ihr mit Freunden tanzen, im Garten mit Bier chillen oder etwas essen wollt: Im Cross Club ist alles möglich.

Riegrovy Sady Biergarten
Riegrovy Sady ist ein riesiger Garten, in dem man viel machen kann. Unter anderem gibt es hier einen sehr günstigen Biergarten. Kommt auf ein Bier und einen Snack vorbei, guckt euch einen Film an oder eine Sportübertragung mit Locals. Schaut euch auf jeden Fall auch den Sonnenuntergang vom nahegelegenen Hügel aus an (ihr wisst, welchen ich meine, wenn ihr dort seid). Er bietet einen tollen Blick über den Fluss und die Altstadt. Und den Sonnenuntergang über einer echten Burg zu sehen, ist sowieso unvergleichlich.

Was unternehmen?

Letna Park (Metronom)
Letna Park ist nicht allzu weit von der Altstadt entfernt und bietet einige der spektakulärsten Aussichten der Stadt. Schlängelt euch durch die kurvigen Wege des Parks zum Metronom, dem höchsten Punkt der Stadt mit der besten Sicht. Das Metronom ist eine beeindruckende Installation, die auf dem Sockel des zerstörten Stalin-Denkmals errichtet wurde. Im Letna Park findet ihr auch den größten Skatepark Prags. Nutzt also eure Sightseeing-Pause, um ein paar coole Kickflips zu sehen.

Prager Burg
Prag ist nicht nur schön, sondern auch alt und historisch – und die Prager Burg ein absolutes Must-See. Die Anlage ist riesig, mit makellosen Kathedralen und kleinen Siedlungen innerhalb der alten Gemäuer. Ein Ort, den ihr nicht verpassen solltet! Mein Lieblingsteil der Burg ist das Goldene Gässchen, wo die Dienstboten gewohnt haben. Schaut euch Kafkas Haus an, die Folterkammer oder übt euch im Bogenschießen (für sagenhafte 2 Euro!). Je nach Budget, könnt ihr für euren Besuch verschiedene Preiskategorien wählen – der Eintrittspreis sollte euch also nicht abschrecken. Wenn ihr habt, nehmt euren Studentenausweis mit. Der Discount ist enorm!

Die Karlsbrücke in der Morgendämmerung
Die Karlsbrücke ist das wohl berühmteste Wahrzeichen der Stadt – und der Besucheransturm entsprechend. Ein Besuch mitten am Tag somit wenig idyllisch. Wie wäre es also mit einem entspannten Bummel über die Brücke, ohne das Gefühl zu haben, mitten in einem Moshpit gelandet zu sein? Ganz einfach: Steht ganz früh morgens auf. Ja, ernsthaft. Ich habe mich um 5 Uhr morgens aus dem Bett gequält und bin zur Brücke getrottet – und es hat sich hundertprozentig gelohnt. Die einzigen Leute zu der Zeit waren Jogger, eine Handvoll Fotografen und einige Party-People, die nach Hause torkelten. Auf der fast leeren Brücke könnt ihr die wunderschöne Moldau und den Sonnenaufgang über der Neustadt genießen.

DOX
Eine der tollsten Sachen am Reisen ist es, Kunstzentren zu besuchen und Arbeiten zu sehen, die es vermutlich nie in eure Heimatstadt schaffen. Mein Lieblingsmuseum in Prag ist das DOX-Zentrum für zeitgenössische Kunst. Obwohl die Anzahl der Ausstellungen überschaubar ist, sind sie sorgfältig kuratiert und provokant. Mir hat „Big Bang Data“ gut gefallen – eine Ausstellung, welche die Arbeiten vieler Künstler zum Thema Daten zeigt, von frei zugänglichen Daten bis hin zu Informationen, die die Künstler selbst ausgespäht haben. Während dies eine vorübergehende Ausstellung war, beherbergt das DOX auch immer eine Architekturausstellung auf dem Museumsdach, die die ganze Stadt sehen kann – und schenkt der Skyline so einen künstlerischen Anstrich.

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