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10 Years of Fashion: NYLON Fashion Director Nina über ihre besten Modemomente der Dekade

Mit dem Ende der 2010er-Jahre schießen auch die Best-Of-Rankings aus dem Boden. Klar, dass sich bei 10 Jahren Geschichte kaum jemand einig wird. Hier kommen deshalb die ganz persönlichen Highlights der NYLON Crew. Als erstes verrät Fashion Director Nina Petters ihre besten Modemente: „Nie zuvor habe ich mich so intensiv mit den neuesten Trends, Saisons und der Designwelt auseinandergesetzt”. Welchen Designern Nina dabei nachtrauert und welche Trends sie bis heute so gar nicht versteht: Recap startet jetzt.

2010 habe ich meine ersten Praktika in verschiedenen Redaktionen absolviert, freien Stylisten assistiert und – von freien Produktionen bis zu meinen ersten eigens produzierten Editorials – Mode gelebt. Natürlich gibt es Trends. Anders würde der gesamte Zirkus nicht funktionieren – aber es geht vor allem auch um einen sehr persönlichen Zugang zu Mode, subjektiver Geschmack, der sich nicht immer verallgemeinern lässt. Ich habe verschiedene Positionen und Geschmäcker von den einzelnen Menschen, mit denen ich arbeiten und lernen konnte, wahrgenommen. Die waren nicht immer konform mit meiner eigenen Meinung, mit meinem persönlichen Geschmack. Mit Sicherheit kann ich aber sagen, dass das (wie ich es nenne) „Sehen lernen“, also ein Gespür für saisonabhängige Trends und zukunftsorientierte Modeerscheinungen zu entwickeln, mich in meiner heutigen Arbeit immer noch beeinflusst. Mein eigenes Modegefühl hat sich dadurch manifestiert. Heute kann ich mich auf dieses Gefühl verlassen, das unerlässlich für meine tägliche Arbeit ist.

Anfang der besten Modemomente: Isabel Marant und die Sneaker-Wedges

Dekade

Foto: Farfetch

Das erste Highlight der letzten Dekade sind für mich ganz klar, die Sneaker-Wedges, welche 2011 von Isabel Marant präsentiert und in kürzester Zeit zum modischen Must-Have wurden. Ein eingearbeiteter Absatz erhöht den Sneaker mit 8-10 Zentimeter auf eine abendtaugliche Version und ist dennoch bequem. Klar, dass viele Frauen diesen Trend mit offenen Armen empfangen haben. Ich habe mich nicht für das Marant’sche Original entschieden, sondern für ein Modell von Marc Jacobs. Wenn ich es mir recht überlege – sollte ich es mal wieder aus seinem Karton holen?

Margiela Was My First Love

Foto: Courtesy of H&M

November 2012 – ich erinnere mich noch genau, wie ich als Assistentin auf einem kommerziellen Job viel Wartezeit totschlagen musste – schlug mein Herz höher: H&M und Maison Martin Margiela launchten ihre Design-Kooperation. Jedes, absolut jedes Teil wollte ich mein Eigen nennen. Ein Best Of meines Design-Helden Martin Margiela, der 2009 das Unternehmen verlies und der Modewelt den Rücken kehrte. Am Ende des Tages, das Hamburger Alsterhaus geplündert, reichte es für mich nur noch für ein Kleid. Meine Enttäuschung war dementsprechend groß. Aber: Ich trage dieses Kleid noch immer. Und nie wieder war ich so erpicht darauf ein Teil aus einer H&M-Collab zu besitzen.

Lang lebe Céline

 

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DARIA

Ein Beitrag geteilt von old céline (@oldceline) am

Ein weiterer Name, der für mich die gesamte letzte Dekade geprägt hat, ist der von Phoebe Philo. Von 2008 bis 2017 designte sie für das französische Modehaus Céline, und setzte Trends: Trapez–Bag, extravaganter Schmuck und Oversized-Anzüge, um nur ein paar zu nennen. Sie spiegelte Female Empowerment in ihren Designs wie kein/e andere/r Modeschöpfer/in wieder. Sie ist bis heute Stimme und modischer Ausdruck für Frauen auf dem gesamten Globus. Der Aufschrei, als sie 2017 ihren Austritt aus dem Unternehmen bekannt gab und Hedi Slimane zum neuen Kreativchef berufen wurde, war umso größer. Mittlerweile sind alte Philo-Kollektionen (berechtigterweise!) für horrende Summen auf Ebay zu finden und der Hashtag #oldcéline in aller Munde. Für einen Neuerwerb reichte auch mein Assistenzgehalt nicht. Also kaufte ich mir in einer Mittags Second Hand eine knautschige Ledertasche mit goldenem Céline-Logo in Off-white. Nun begleitet sie mich in anhaltender Schönheit schon seit ein paar Jahren. Ein unschlagbarer Klassiker in meiner Garderobe.

Das Balenciaga-Zeitalter feat. Demna

Unter der Leitung Demna Gvasalias hat das Modehaus Balenciaga die 2010s durcheinander gewirbelt. Seit 2015 begeistert der Designer mit seinen abgedrehten Entwürfen die Fachpresse und zaubert den weniger modeversierten Mitmenschen Fragezeichen in die Augen. Viel zu große Blazer, Chunky-Sneaker oder eben die „Pantashoes“ – eine Leggins-artige Hose, in der ein High Heel eingearbeitet ist, konnten überzeugen. Weniger Mutige machen diesen Trend in der abgewandelt Sock-Shoe-Version alltagstauglich. Viele Ideen und Designs Gvasalias sind unverkennbar von, siehe da, Martin Margiela aus den 90ern inspiriert – um es nett auszudrücken. Nichtsdestotrotz gilt Balenciaga als prägendste Marke der letzten Dekade.

Ein Trend, dem ab Mitte des Jahrzehnts niemand entkommen konnte: die Mom-Jeans. Hochgeschlossen, in hellblau, gerne destroyed. Mit einem weiter geschnittenen Bein als bei den zuvor beliebten Skinny-Jeans, haben sie sich nonchalant unter unsere Hosenfamilie gemischt. Ein Trend der wirklich nicht jeder Frau stand – beziehungsweise steht, schließlich ist er noch immer nicht ganz aus den Jeans-Sortimenten wegzudenken. In Kombination mit einem Crop-Top allseits beliebt mag es zu dem Celeb-Outfit der 2010er hochleben lassen. Mich persönlich hat dieser Look leider so gar nicht gepackt. Zu einfach, zu konform vielleicht? Warum Dua Lipa, Anne-Marie, die Hadid-Schwestern oder Taylor Swift diesen Look nur allzu gern tragen, frage ich mich bis heute.

 

 

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Celebrating the mid-week w/ another one from „Hotline Bling“ 💖 styled by @styledby_ny and shot by @savannarr

Ein Beitrag geteilt von NYLON magazine germany (@nylongermany) am

Ein Revival der ganz besonderen Art durften Strumpfhosen miterleben. In allen erdenklichen Farben, wild gemustert und besonders als Net-Tights haben sie brave Looks in modische Highlights verwandelt. Nach einem kurzen aufflammen im Jahr 2017 ist der Trend – zumindest was die Net-Tights angeht – aber erstmal wieder vom Bein.

 

Im Sommer 2018 begann dann der Hype um Tiny-Glasses, Mini-Sonnenbrillen. Bunt gefärbte, kleine Gläser in Cat-Eye-Optik, angelehnt an die späten 90er und frühen 2000er, ging der weniger funktionale Hingucker-Trend um die Welt. Wer hat sie nicht getragen? Ich habe tatsächlich drei verschiedene Modelle. Zum Ende der Dekade darf er sich aber erstmal aus den Gesichtern der Weltbevölkerung verabschieden. Next!

Das Ende einer Ära: der Tod von Karl Lagerfeld

 

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If It’s Tuesday… It Must Be Chanel!!! Backstage at the finale of Chanel’s Perfectly Wacky, Incredibly Chic altogether hilariously, yet relatively restrained riotous Fall/ Winter 1994-1995 Haute a Couture Collection! This collection as previously mentioned, introduced Lagerfeld’s “Wündercorset” worn under EVERY, SINGLE, OUTFIT and the clothes themselves being made and measured so diabolically small that they could not, under any circumstance be worn without the hip-cropped corsets underneath (truth be known, there were short navel cropped jackets in the collection that had shorter… “Wündercorselets” underneath) and featured also wildly flamboyant feathered headpieces by Philip Treacy that acted, contrapuntally, to the relatively restrained nature of the collection. There as well, was the addition of Karl’s idea of Palazzo pants/jumpsuits that were as audaciously wacky and off-kilter as could possibly be (Claudia, wore an embroidered bridal palazzo leg jumpsuit, FOR GOD SAKE!) It was one of Lagerfeld’s most beautiful and magical collections that defied convention and completely disassembled all the Chanel codes and allures and reshuffled then into configurations heretofore unknown and unseen and unmistakably Karl! GENIUS!!! Here Karl is with his kit of Supers Nadja Auermann, Carla Bruni, Brandi Quinones, Helena Christensen, and Bride, Claudia Schiffer. You may notice to the side of Claudia is Gilles Dufour, Karl’s Right Hand at the house! @chanelofficial @karllagerfeld #Chanel #ChanelHauteCouture #KarlLagerfeld @nadjaauermann #NadjaAuermann @carlabruniofficial #CarloBruni @brandiquinones #BrandiQuinones @helenachristensen #HelenaChristensen @claudiaschiffer #ClaudiaSchiffer @ericvbwright @philiptreacy @gillesdufour_gd @victoiredecastellane @andreltalley @unforgettable_runway @noumenonphenomenon @kikisterling_gallery @cocomama71 @styledby_emma @globaldesigngypsy @orlandopita #ChanelMetiersdArt #Supermodels #GoneButNotForgotten #GoneTooSoon #IfItsTuesdayItMustBeChanel

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Terrill Lawrence Sanford (@karl4ever76) am

Mit der letzten Dekade geht auch ein wahres Modezeitalter zu Ende. Der Tod Karl Lagerfelds am 19. Februar 2019 versetzte der Modewelt einen heftigen Schlag. Chanel – das, zumindest für mich, konstanteste und gefestigtste Haus, welches par excellence für französische Modekunst stand, verlor nach unglaublichen 36 Jahren seinen Visionär und Kreativchef. Die Nachfolge durch seine langjährige Designassistentin Virginie Viard wurde umso mehr gefeiert. Eine komplett neue Ordnung im Hause Chanel muss nicht gefürchtet werden. Was Karl über Jahrzehnte erschaffen hat ist unvergleichlich. Ich erinnere mich an meine erste Chanel-Show im Frühjahr 2018 noch wie heute. Bäume und Massen an Laub verwandelten ein Gebäude 20 Minuten Show in einen Wald. Feengleich schwebten die Modelle den 200 Meter langen Laub-Laufsteg auf und ab – ein Eindruck, der mir für immer bleiben wird. Dabei wird mir bewusst, was genau ich an Mode liebe: Sie darf alles. Mode lädt zum Träumen, zum Schwelgen ein. Sie ist surreal, muss nicht gefallen – aber inspirieren.

Wir dürfen gespannt sein welche Trends in den nächsten 10 Jahre auf uns zu rollen werden – von hochinteressant, bis hin zu superlangweilig. Bestimmt wird alles dabei sein. Doch zum Glück muss ja nicht alles für immer währen – ich bleibe dran.

Titelbild: Links: Instagram @gigihadid, Rechts: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images via NYLON.com, Illustration: Sofia Rezunov

Nina Petters
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