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Der ultimative NYLON-Guide für lockige Haare

„Das, was wir im Spiegel sehen, ist eine mentale, emotionale Reise. Es braucht Zeit.“

Text: Hafeezah Nazim // Illustration: Liz Riccardi

Meine Haare und ich hatten schon immer eine angespannte Beziehung. Als Kind fand ich stets Mittel und Wege, mich vor dem Frisieren zu drücken, weil es solch ein langer, schmerzhafter Prozess war. Doch obwohl es mir wehtat, wenn meine Mutter alle paar Tage mit einem Kamm durch meine störrischen, verknoteten Locken harkte, reichte nichts an die Qual der TV-Spots heran, die ich mir währenddessen ansah: Frauen, die ihre glänzenden, seidigen und anscheinend schmerzfreien Haare stolz zur Schau stellten. Erst als meine Mutter mich mit in einen Friseursalon nahm, um dort meine Haare stylen zu lassen, erkannte ich, dass auch ich seidiges, weiches Haar haben könnte – genau wie die Mädchen aus der Fernsehwerbung. Gebannt, mit weit aufgerissenen Augen beobachtete ich, wie der Friseur Föhn und Glätteisen durch meine Haare zog. In dem Moment wusste ich: Ich war mehr als bereit, den Preis für Hitzeschäden zu bezahlen, um mich schön zu fühlen. In der Folge verfiel ich einem üblen Haarzyklus, in dem ich andauernd heiße Styling-Tools verwendete, bis mein Haar spröde und brüchig wurde. Als ich 15 Jahre alt war, musste ich meine lockigen, fast bis zur Taille reichenden Haare schließlich abschneiden, da ich sie zuvor jeden Tag geglättet hatte. Anschließend machte mir diese Styling-Prozedur immer weniger Spaß. Das Glätten meiner Haare verkam zu einem traurigen Bewältigungsmechanismus, um mit meinem drastischen Haarwandel klarzukommen. Für eine lange Zeit glaubte ich, es gebe kein Entkommen aus diesem Zyklus. Bis ich mich in meinem ersten Jahr am College mit Mädchen anfreundete, die den Schritt zu natürlichem Haar gewagt hatten und mir bei der Abgewöhnung von Hitze-Stylings halfen. Langsam begann ich, mein natürliches Haar zu akzeptieren und bekam ein wenig meiner alten Lockenstruktur zurück. Während dieser Zeit versteckte ich mich hinter Hochsteckfrisuren, Pferdeschwänzen und festen, zurückgezurrten Buns, damit niemand mein krauses, halb lockiges Haar sah. Insgeheim sehnte ich mich danach, wie die Mädchen auf Instagram oder in meinem Studentenwohnheim auszusehen: selbstbewusst und strahlend mit ihren flauschigen, federnden Locken. Ich wollte endlich aufhören, mich zu verstecken. Also nahm ich die Hilfe einiger Experten in Anspruch, um mir auf diesem Weg helfen zu lassen.

„Kunden sagen mir oft, wenn sie Mädchen sehen, die diese Reise bereits hinter sich haben: ‚Ja, aber das sind nicht meine Haare, meine Haare sind frizzy. Das sind nicht meine Locken’“, erzählt mir Jessica Fitzpatrick, Lockenspezialistin bei „DevaCurl“, während sie meine Haare im Flagship-Salon in New York stylt. „Und ja, vielleicht ist es nicht deine exakte Lockenstruktur, aber du kannst definitiv verdammt gutes Haar bekommen, verdammt gutes lockiges Haar. Und es wird zu einer selbstverständlichen Gewohnheit. Viele Mädchen sagen mir: ‚Das dauert viel zu lange’. Und ich antworte dann: ‚Und wie viel Zeit verbringst du im Salon, um deine Haare stylen zu lassen?’ Oder: ‚Wie viel Zeit verbringst du morgens damit, es zu glätten?’ Oder: ‚Wie viel Zeit verbringst du damit, frustriert zu sein?’“  Mit Hilfe von Jessica Fitzpatrick, Anthony Cole (Internationaler Stylist bei „Sebastian Professional“) sowie Promi-Stylistin und „SheaMoisture“-Markenbotschafterin Diane C. Bailey fand ich nicht nur heraus, wie ich mein eigenes Haar style, sondern konnte aus ihren Tipps auch einen leicht verständlichen Vier-Schritte-Guide erstellen. Lest hier, was sie zu sagen haben.

1. Informiert euch
Es erscheint ziemlich offensichtlich: Wenn in eurem Leben wichtige Veränderungen anstehen, solltet ihr erst einmal ein wenig recherchieren. Aber wo fängt man an? Um die richtige Kur für eure Locken zu finden, müsst ihr wissen, welche Art von Locken ihr habt. Dieses Schaubild ist ein guter Ausgangspunkt, um sich mit euren Haaren vertraut zu machen. Aber manchmal ist die Antwort nicht so einfach. „Es gibt viele weitere Haartypen, Strukturen und Kombinationen (…), die nicht in einer Gruppierung von Typen erfasst werden können“, erklärt Diane C. Bailey. „Als professionelle Stylistin spreche ich über die Haarstruktur eines Kunden und definiere diese so eindeutig wie möglich. Ich berühre und fühle das Haar, um die verschiedenen Grade der Dichte und Durchlässigkeit zu bestimmen und ob das Haar fein, geschädigt, weich, rau, gewellt, kräftig oder drahtig ist. Oft haben die Leute verschiedene Strukturen auf dem Kopf. Es ist wichtig zu wissen, wie viele es sind, um die unterschiedlichen Bedürfnisse der einzelnen Haartypen zu bedienen und zu beraten, wie sie ihre Haare effektiv pflegen und stylen können.“ Denjenigen, die nicht die Zeit oder das Geld haben, einen Stylisten aufzusuchen, empfiehlt Diane C. Bailey die Haarerkennung von SheaMoistures auf AMillionWaysToShea.com. Das Online-Tool bietet personalisierte Empfehlungen, um euer Haarbedürfnis mit einem bestimmten Produkt zu matchen und schnell zu dem riesigen Angebot zu navigieren.

2. Tiefenwirksamer Conditioner ist dein Freund, nicht dein Feind
Wir alle haben gelernt: Der richtige Weg, Haare zu waschen, ist einschäumen, ausspülen, wiederholen. Doch es zeigt sich, dass diese One-Size-Fits-All-Methode nicht die Beste für Lockenköpfe ist. Ja, die Reinigung von Haaren und Kopfhaut ist wichtig. Aber was viele nicht wissen, ist, dass die Verwendung eines Conditioners genauso wichtig ist – wenn nicht noch wichtiger. Durch die Einbeziehung von Spülungen, Seren und Tiefenbehandlungen repariert ihr beschädigte Haare und bekommt einen Lockenkopf frei von Frizz.  „Pre-Shampoo-Treatments, tiefenwirksame Masken und Leave-in Conditioner helfen, stärkere Haare zu fördern und Bruchstellen zu vermeiden. Ich empfehle oft die ‚Sacha Inchi Oil Omega-3-6-9 Rescue + Repair Co-wash’ von ‚SheaMoisture’ – nicht als Treatment, sondern als sanften Conditioner-Reiniger für anfälliges, krauses Haar“, sagt Diane C. Bailey. „Ein weiterer Irrglaube ist, wie oft man sein Haar waschen sollte. Häufiges Shampoonieren schwarzer Haare kann sowohl die Längen als auch die Kopfhaut austrocknen. Die Frequenz hängt meist von mehreren Faktoren ab, einschließlich der allgemeinen Gesundheit der Haare, des Haartyps, der Struktur und der Jahreszeit. Generell braucht dichtes, krauses Haar weniger Shampoo. Im Sommer wollen Sie vielleicht einmal pro Woche ein Shampoo verwenden, während im Winter ein wöchentliches Co-Washing gemacht werden kann [nur der Gebrauch einer Haarspülung bei Verzicht aufs Shampoo]. Co-Washing bei kühlerem Wetter hilft auch, Frizz und Haarbruch zu verhindern.“  Anthony Cole stimmt dem zu, warnt aber, der komplette Verzicht auf Shampoos könne schädlich für die Haargesundheit sein. „Vergewissern Sie sich, dass Sie eine Reinigung verwenden, die stark genug ist, um die Haarwurzel von Schmutz zu befreien. Wenn dies nicht gelingt, kann sich die Struktur Ihres Haares verändern“, verdeutlicht er. „Einige meiner Klienten sagen, dass sie ihre Haare nicht waschen, weil sie dadurch Frizz bekommen und gehen dann ins Fitness-Studio. Nun, wenn Sie ins Fitness-Studio gehen, schwitzen Sie, und Schweiß ist Salz. Sie denken, sie würden großartiges Haar bekommen. Aber tatsächlich ist es besser, die Haare mehr zu waschen und einen Conditioner sowie einmal pro Woche eine Maske aufzutragen. Ihr Haar wird draußen frizzy, weil es trocken ist und versucht, die Feuchtigkeit aufzusaugen! Die schnelle Lösung ist Öl. Doch dadurch schaffen Sie eine Barriere, es ist sehr vorübergehend und hilft nicht der Gesundheit Ihrer Haare.“

3. Vermeidet Hitze und synthetische Öle
Auf Natürlichkeit zu setzen, bedeutet, natürliche Produkte zu favorisieren. Das heißt: Wärme und synthetische Inhaltsstoffe vermeiden und sich in der Kunst des Lufttrocknens üben.  „Ich empfehle immer, die Haare (an der Luft) trocknen zu lassen“, rät Anthony Cole. „Wenn Sie einen Diffusor benutzen, föhnen Sie das Haar zu 80 Prozent trocken und lass Sie den Rest an der Luft trocknen. Und niemals das Haar im nassen Zustand bürsten – Sie sollten krauses Haar überhaupt nicht bürsten. Lockiges Haar mit weicherer Struktur am besten mit weicheren Borsten bürsten. Beginnen Sie mit den Enden und arbeiten Sie sich nach außen vor. Wenn Sie eine Z-Struktur bis krauses Haar haben, lassen Sie es besser. Wickeln Sie ein Handtuch herum und lassen Sie die Feuchtigkeit eindringen.“ Er ergänzt: „Und wenn Sie Hitze verwenden, stellen Sie sicher, dass sie sehr gering ist.“  Wenn es um die richtigen Produkte geht, empfiehlt Diane C. Bailey auf Erdöl, Sulfate, künstliche Farbe und alles mit zu vielen Zutaten zu verzichten. „Ich benutze bei meinen Kunden mit Übergangshaaren regelmäßig mehrere Produkte, einschließlich „Coconut & Hibiscus Co-Wash Conditioning Cleanser“ von „SheaMoisture“, da es eine ausgezeichnete Alternative zu schäumenden Shampoos ist, die Sulfate enthalten. Starkes Erdöl und synthetische Öle sollten ebenfalls vermieden werden, da sie Haare und Kopfhaut nicht nähren. Ich rate meinen Kunden, nur Produkte mit ätherischen Ölen und / oder natürlichen Extrakten zu verwenden anstelle von synthetischen Duftstoffen, die oft Phthalate enthalten, die wiederum möglicherweise gesundheitliche Risiken haben können.“  Und denjenigen, die ihr Haar glätten wollen, empfiehlt Jessica Fitzpatrick die DIY-Methode. „Wenn Sie Ihre Haare wirklich glatt föhnen und stylen wollen, machen Sie es selbst. Sie wissen, wie viel Zugspannung Sie selbst anwenden, im Vergleich zu dem, was sie im Salon machen.“

4. Habt Geduld mit euch
Drake sagte einmal: „Manchmal geht es darum, auf etwas zuzugehen, nicht dort anzukommen. Manchmal ist es die Reise, die dich viel über dein Ziel lehrt.“ Und das ist der Umstieg auf natürliches Haar auch: eine Reise. „Der Übergang zu natürlichen Haaren dauert oft sechs bis acht Monate. So können die natürlichen Haare wachsen, um eine signifikante Länge zu erreichen“, sagt Diane C. Bailey. „Nach dieser Zeit empfehle ich immer, die restlichen beschädigten Enden abzuschneiden. Der Grund, weshalb die meisten Frauen sich für eine lange Übergangszeit entscheiden, ist, weil sie sich mit kurzen Haaren nicht wohl fühlen. Der ‚große Schnitt’ oder die Beseitigung chemisch behandelter und oft beschädigter Haare, kann für einige Frauen mitunter beängstigend sein. Wandel ist gleichzeitig eine ‚Reise’ in die Selbstfindung, ein scheinbar langsamerer Prozess, um Ihre ursprüngliche Haarstruktur kennen zu lernen.“ „Hitzegeschädigtes Haar braucht eine Weile, um seine Elastizität zurückzugewinnen. Es gibt keine Feuchtigkeit in Ihren Haaren, keine Elastizität, um das Keratin auszuweiten. Wenn Sie aufhören, Hitze zu verwenden und mit diesen Produkten anfangen, werden diese Dinge zurückkommen“, erklärt Anthony Cole. „Sie werden sehen, dass Ihre Locken etwas mehr werden als zuvor.“

Als Jessica Fitzpatrick mir noch schnell einen Schnitt verpasst, fragt sie, weshalb ich mich zu mehr Natürlichkeit entschieden habe. Ich seufze genervt und antworte: „Ich habe es satt, damit Schritt zu halten. Es ist zu viel zu pflegen und ich weiß, dass ich mit jeder Hitze mehr Schaden anrichte.“ Als sie fertig ist, sind meine Haare etwas kürzer und definitiv ausladender. Ich habe noch nie mit meinem natürlichen Haar das Haus verlassen – es sei denn, es war hochgesteckt – und eine Welle der Panik überkommt mich. Ich sehe mich verblüfft im Spiegel an. Als ob sie meine Gedanken liest, sagt sie: „Sei geduldig mit dir. Wir lernen etwas Neues. Wir lernen, dass es nicht nur eine körperliche Reise in unseren Haaren ist. Das, was wir im Spiegel sehen, ist eine mentale, emotionale Reise. Es braucht Zeit.“

 

Robin Micha
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