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5 Tipps für faires Shopping

Ja, wir können es nicht mehr verleugnen: Der Zustand unseres Planeten hängt von uns selbst ab. Mit diesen 5 Tipps könnt ihr beim Shopping deshalb schon mal einen kleinen Beitrag zur Verbesserung leisten.

Text: Jenna Igneri via NYLON.com

Mittlerweile ist klar, dass die Modeindustrie nicht besonders gut für unseren Planeten ist. Die Industrie als Gesamtpaket ist die am zweithäufigsten verschmutzende Industrie der Welt und kommt direkt hinter der Ölbranche, was schon viel aussagt. Da immer mehr Wahrheiten über die Industriepraktiken – und unseren sterbenden Planeten – aufgedeckt werden, ist es zumindest beruhigend, dass die nachhaltige Modeindustrie boomt.

Jeden Tag entstehen neue Modemarken, die sich bemühen, so nachhaltig wie möglich zu sein, indem sie mit streng organischen Materialien arbeiten oder ethische Produktionspraktiken anwenden. Auch bereits existierende Marken setzen auf Nachhaltigkeit, um ihren CO2-Fußabdruck zu reduzieren, wie z.B. die Einführung ethisch einwandfreier Kollektionen oder die Einführung von Recyclingprogrammen. Anstatt alte Kleidung wegzuwerfen, entscheiden sich die Verbraucher dafür, ihre Kleidung zu spenden oder sie an recycelte Modehändler wie Buffalo Exchange zu verkaufen.

Das sind natürlich gute Dinge, aber es ist immer noch keine große Veränderung im Bezug auf die tatsächlichen Umweltauswirkungen.

Bio-Baumwolle, die von vielen nachhaltigen Marken verwendet wird, macht immer noch nur 1 Prozent der weltweiten Baumwollproduktion aus. Laut Newsweek werden nur 0,1 Prozent der Kleidung, die an alle Wohltätigkeitsorganisationen und Rücknahmeprogramme gespendet wird, zu neuem Textilgewebe recycelt. Tatsächlich werden 84 Prozent der entsorgten Kleidung verbrannt, was, wie ihr euch vorstellen können, schrecklich für unseren Planeten ist.

Warum? Weil in der Welt mehr weggeworfene Kleidung im Umlauf ist, als dass wir wissen, was wir damit tun sollen.

Das Problem ist, dass wir als Verbraucher unglaublich verschwenderisch sind. Die US-Amerikaner kaufen fünfmal so viele Kleider wie wir in den 80er Jahren, und die Zugänglichkeit zu Fast Fashion hilft der Sachlage sicherlich nicht. Es gibt noch viel zu tun, um die Strukutren der Modebranche umzudrehen, und wenn echte Veränderungen umgesetzt werden sollen, müssen wir mit unseren Einkaufsgewohnheiten beginnen.

Wir haben mit drei Frauen aus der Modebranche darüber gesprochen, wie sie daran arbeiten, die Botschaft der Nachhaltigkeit zu verbreiten und die Massen aufzuklären, und dabei direkt auch ein paar ihrer Einkaufstipps (und Nicht-Einkaufstipps) erhalten.

Clare Press ist eine 17-jährige australische Modejournalistin, die Anfang des Jahres zum Nachhaltigkeitsredakteur der Vogue Australia ernannt wurde – die erste Position ihrer Art. Press hat nicht nur ein Buch über die Umweltgefahren der Branche („Wardrobe Crisis, How We Went from Sunday Best to Fast Fashion“) geschrieben, sondern es in einen wöchentlichen Podcast verwandelt, auf dem sie Designer wie Karen Walker und Christopher Raeburn, sowie andere Denker, Kreative und Change-Maker interviewt. „Es geht darum, Gespräche darüber zu erweitern, wozu Mode gut ist, welche Auswirkungen sie hat und wie das System funktioniert.“

Alles begann, nachdem sie anfing, mehr über nachhaltige und ethische Mode zu lernen und zu schreiben, nachdem eine Bekleidungsfabrik in Bangladesch im Jahr 2013 zusammenbrach und über 1.100 Menschen ums Leben kam. „Allmählich verband ich die Punkte untereinander, von den Auswirkungen der Mode auf die Umwelt bis hin zu der Frage, wie wir uns in einem Teufelskreis bewegen, bis hin zu den wahren Geschichten, wer unsere Kleidung herstellt. Ich schaue mir jetzt all die Geschichten an, die ich durch diese Linse erzähle.“

Ihr Ziel ist es, so viele Menschen wie möglich zu erreichen. „Wenn wir eine nachhaltige Modebewegung aufbauen wollen, müssen wir so viele Leute wie möglich einladen“, sagt sie. Sie hält es für wichtig, die Menschen nicht nur über die schlechten Dinge aufzuklären, sondern auch das Gute zu feiern – wie all die neuen nachhaltigen Marken da draußen. „Verhängnis und Finsternis ändern nicht immer die Meinung.“ Wir müssen positive Aspekte in das Gespräch einbringen. Negativität motiviert nur eine kleine Minderheit.“

Colleen Coughlin war ein Modedesignerin mit über 14 Jahren Erfahrung in der Bekleidungsindustrie in New York und Miami. Ein schlimmes Erlebnis veränderte jedoch alles:  Die Marke, für die sie entwarf, entschied sich, 15 Behälter voller Zierleisten, Knöpfe, Stoffe und Entwicklungsmuster einfach zu verbrennen, anstatt sie an eine lokale Design-Hochschule zu spenden. Also kündigte Colleen, ging zurück zur Schule und machte ihren Abschluss in der allerersten Sustainable Design Entrepreneurship-Klasse des FIT. Danach gründete sie dann schlussendlich ihr eigenes Upcycling- und professionelles Kleiderschrank-Update-Unternehmen namens TheFullEdit.

Coughlins Ansatz, um über Nachhaltigkeit aufzuklären, ist es, Spaß zu haben. „So bleibt die Botschaft hängen. Niemand mag es, wenn ein wütender Aktivist ihnen sagt, was sie tun sollen.“ Auf Kundenebene organisiert, säubert und stylt ihr Unternehmen die Kleiderschränke und ist sicher, dass alles, was nicht mehr gebraucht wird, wiederverwendet oder recycelt wird. Das Ziel ist es, den Bedarf der Kunden zu verringern, mehr zu kaufen und stattdessen in hochwertige, bewusste und klassische Stücke zu investieren.

Aber Colleen tut viel mehr für die Masse. Sie veranstaltet Upcycling-Workshops, in denen die Teilnehmer etwas Neues aus gebrauchter Kleidung kreieren, spricht mit Schulen und Organisationen über die Bedeutung nachhaltiger Mode und berät Unternehmen zum Zero-Waste-Leben. Sie war sogar Mitorganisatorin des ersten Fashion Revolution Events in Miami im vergangenen Jahr, bei dem sie Panels zum Thema Nachhaltigkeit veranstaltete, und veranstaltet unter anderem einen für dieses Jahr geplante Workshop zum Thema Saumreparatur.


Jennifer Rosson von Style Your Life ist Stylistin und Personal Shopperin, die die Welt beim Einkaufen verändern will. Seit über 20 Jahren ist sie in der Branche tätig und bleibt dabei eine starke Gegnerin von Over-Shopping, kämpft aber wiederum für Spenden gebrauchter Kleidung und Secondhand-Shopping – und informiert ihre Kunden außerdem über diese Angewohnheiten. Im Laufe der Jahre hat sie sich mit Marken  für Videoprojekte zusammengetan, um die Verbraucher über nachhaltiges Einkaufen aufzuklären.

Ihr Ziel ist es, die Verbraucher darüber aufzuklären, wie sie beim Einkaufen aufmerksamer sein können – vor allem, wenn es um alle „Einwegartikel“ geht, die es heute gibt. „Es ist viel besser, etwas mehr für ein Qualitätsstück auszugeben, das jahrelang hält“, sagt sie. „Es wird nicht nur der Erde helfen, sondern auch deiner Brieftasche.“

Schließlich ist sie der Meinung, dass die jüngste Popularität nachhaltiger Mode dazu bestimmt ist, die Branche zu verändern. „Ich denke, dass alle Marken eine Nachhaltigkeitskomponente in ihr Sortiment aufnehmen müssen, und es wird spannend zu sehen sein, wie sich das entwickelt. Innovation wird eine große Rolle bei der zukünftigen Markenbetrachtung spielen.“

Alle diese Frauen nutzen ihr Fachwissen, um die Botschaft der Achtsamkeit zu verbreiten, wenn es um unsere Kleidung geht. Weil es letztendlich an den Verbrauchern liegt, echte Veränderungen zu bewirken – und diese ziemlich traurigen Statistiken zu ändern. Also hat jede von ihnen ihre Tipps verraten, wie wir alle aufmerksamer und umweltbewusster einkaufen können:

Erstellt eine Einkaufsliste

 

Einkaufslisten sind nicht nur für Lebensmittel. Rosson möchte, dass ihr eine Liste der Dinge, die ihr braucht, wie zum Beispiel einen neuen Wintermantel oder einen Blazer für den neuen Job, erstellt, um irgendwelche Impulskäufe zu vermeiden. „Die Leute denken normalerweise nicht daran, mit einer Liste einzukaufen, wenn sie Kleidung kaufen, aber sie sollten es tun. Einkaufen mit einer Liste ist hilfreich, so dass ihr nur Artikel kauft, die ihr wirklich braucht!“

Investiert mehr in einzelne Stücke

 

Ja, okay, während viele von uns sich keine Designer-Preise leisten können, wünscht sich Rosson, dass ihr auf mehr zeitlose Investitioen spart, die ihr jahrelang tragen könnt. Nicht nur, dass die höhere Qualität es dem Stück erlaubt, jedes trendige, schnelle Modestück zu überdauern, so dass ihr mehr Nutzen daraus ziehen könnt: Statt es einfach wegzuwerfen, könntet ihr es auch, dort wo es möglich ist, einfach einsenden. „Ihr könnt diese Teile einschicken und erhaltet mehr als eure Anfangsinvestition zurück“, sagt Rosson. Das ist etwas, was man mit Last-Season Zara oder H&M nicht machen kann.

Überlegt, wie oft Sie ein Kleidungsstück tragen werdet

 

Ihr starrt den verzierten Minirock im Fenster an? Coughlin will, dass ihr euch fragt, wie oft ihr ihn tragen werdet. „Ich glaube, wenn du dich fragst: „Wie oft werde ich das noch tragen?“ und den Preis des Kleidungsstücks durch die Kosten geteilt betrachten, wirst du achtsamer sein.“ Wenn etwas zum Beispiel 100 Euro kostet und ihr wisst, dass ihr es nur viermal tragen werdet, dann betrachtet es als 25 Euro pro Tragen. Wenn das etwas ist, hinter dem ihr stehen könnt, dann tut es, aber wenn die Kosten pro Tragen einfach nicht stimmen, geht weiter.

Veranstaltet einen Kleidertausch

 

Wenn ihr das nächste Mal etwas Platz in eurem Schrank wollt, schlägt Coughlin vor, einen Kleidertausch mit den besten Freunden zu machen. „Auf diese Weise kannst du deinen „Nein-Danke-Haufen“ gegen ihren eintauschen.“ So gibt’s neue, kostenlose Kleidung für unsere persönlichen Kleiderschränke, während wir die Dinge, die wir nicht mehr wollen oder brauchen, auf ethische vertretbare Weise rauswerfen? Klingt nach dem perfekten Plan.

Stellt weitere Fragen

 

„Wie es bei Fashion Revolution heißt: Seid neugierig, findet heraus, tut etwas“, sagt Press. Recherchiert eine Marke oder ein Geschäft, bevor ihr hingeht: Was sind deren Nachhaltigkeitspraktiken? Bieten sie Stücke von nachhaltig gefertigten Marken an, oder zerstören sie die Umwelt? Und während die Antworten nicht immer so schwarz auf weiß sind, sollten die Antworten, die ihr erhaltet, letztendlich eure Kaufentscheidungen beeinflussen. Und findet heraus, was ihr selbst tun könnt, um echte Veränderungen herbeizuführen.

Wenn der Earth Day näher rückt, lasst diese Tipps die Art und Weise beeinflussen, wie ihr einkauft (oder nicht einkauft) – nicht nur am 22. April, sondern das ganze Jahr über. Denkt daran, dass der Zustand unseres Planeten – und die Auswirkungen der Modebranche auf ihn – letztendlich von uns abhängt.

 

Nylon
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